401 Clipper Troubleshooting

What type of noise is it?  (grinding, whining, clattering, etc)
Are your clippers noisy with the blades on or with the blades off?  (If noisy with the blades off, see #1.  If noisy only with the blades on, go to # 2.  If noisy with the blades on or off, see #1.

#1.  Remove the blades and listen to the clipper.  (A hum is normal.  Roaring or growling is excessive bearing noise.  Clattering is a bowed cover plate #6 or worn lever #4.)

#2.  Put the blades on the clipper and listen to the clipper.   If you hear a clattering noise, this indicates a problem with the latch and hinge #3, the lever #4, the blade stabilizers #5, a bowed cover plate #6 or a combination of all of them.  A hum is normal.  Roaring or growling is excessive bearing noise.

#3. Latch & Hinge– Remove the blade and inspect the latch hook (the latch is the small black metal component located beneath the hinge which is pushed up by the thumb when removing and installing blades).  The upper end of the latch has a small hook.  By turning the clipper to the side and examining the top of the latch, a small “c” shaped hook should be seen.  If the hook is broken, the latch should be replaced.  The spring in the hinge can also be fatigued.  This can be tested by trying to pull the blades away without pressing up on the latch.  If the blades are fairly easy to pull away a small amount, then the hinge should be replaced (*note this test works only if the latch is not broken.)

#4.  Lever – With the blade removed, visually inspect the top part of the lever. It should not be chewed or have cuts or gashes on the sides.  If it does, replace it.  Also, grasp the exposed end of the blade lever between the thumb and forefinger and try to wiggle it from side to side.  Lever should feel firm with no play. If play exists, replace the lever.

#5.  Blade stabilizers – With the blade removed from the clipper handpiece, hold the blade in your hand with the moving portion of the blade (the cutter) facing you.  Observe the metal spring clip which holds the cutter to the stationary portion of the blade (the comb).  The spring clip has two metal protrusions attached to either side of the cut-out midsection which stabilizes the blade to the latch and hinge assembly during use.  To stabilize the blade:  Take a pair of pliers and squeeze together slightly the metal protrusions on the blade spring clip.  Test blade on clipper handpiece to see if blade runs quietly.  If blade is still noisy, remove blade and repeat procedure.  NOTE*  If stabilizers are squeezed together too closely, the blade will not seat properly on the clipper handpiece in which case they will need to be spread apart slightly.

#6. A bowed cover plate – The easiest way to test if the cover plate is bowed and allowing the lever to rise off of the post and make noise is by turning the cover plate over and reinstalling it on the clipper with the underside facing out. If this eliminates the noise, the cover plate should be replaced. If cosmetics are not important, you can use a rubber mallet to bang the bow out of the cover plate. You should also check to make sure the lever washer is in plate on top of the lever at the lever post.

Solution: The blade lever may be worn and should be checked. Perform the following tests to check for lever wear. With the handpiece connected to the drive cable and the blade removed, visually inspect the top front part of the lever. It should not be “chewed” or have cuts or gashes on the sides. If it does, replace as described below. Then grasp the exposed end of the blade lever between thumb and forefinger and try to wiggle from side to side. Lever should feel firm with no “play”. If “play” exists, lever should be replaced.

To replace the lever: Remove screws in the clipper faceplate, remove old lever and install new lever on the post. Be sure to place a small amount of all-purpose grease on the lever post and in the back of the notched groove of the lever before installing. Replace faceplate and tighten faceplate screws securely.

1. Check the clipper latch: Remove blade and inspect the latch hook (the latch is the small black metal component located beneath the hinge which is pushed by the thumb when removing and installing blades) The upper end of the latch has a small hook. By turning the clipper to the side and examining the top of the latch, a small “C” shaped hook should be seen. If the hook is broken the latch should be replaced. To Replace the Latch: Loosen the two screws holding the latch and hinge assembly in place. Remove the latch and hinge assembly. Remove broken latch up and away from hinge and releasing small spring hooks holding the components together. Place the spring hooks on the latch into the holes of the new latch and push the new latch into the proper position on the hinge. Re-install latch and hinge assembly on the clipper handpiece using removable “lock-tite” on screw threads.

2. Check metal hinge stabilizers on the blade. With the blade removed from the clipper handpiece, hold the blade in hand with the moving portion of the blade (the cutter) facing you. Observe the metal spring clip which holds the cutter to the stationary portion of the blade (the comb). The spring clip has two metal protrusions attached to either side of the cut-out mid-section which stabilizes the blade to the latch and hinge assembly during use. If these protrusions are too far apart, the blade is not stable during clipping and therefore will clatter during use. To Stabilize blade: Take a pair of pliers and squeeze together slightly the metal protrusions on the blade spring clip. Test blade on clipper handpiece to see if blade runs quietly. If blade is still noisy, remove blade and squeeze the metal protrusions again. *NOTE: If stabilizers are squeezed together too closely, the blade will not seat properly on the clipper handpiece in which case they will need to be spread apart slightly.

It is normal for blades to get hot during use. The high speed and greater range of blade motion is what gives the Groomer’s Edge Clipper its superior clipping capability but will cause the blades to heat up quicker than you may be accustomed to. The Clipper Handpiece will stay cool in your hand and you can rotate through several clipper blades allowing for continuous clipping. It is best to rotate several sets of blades allowing the hot blades to soak in a coolant or blade wash until cool while continuing to clip with fresh, cool blades. Hot blades may also be placed on a cool surface such as a concrete floor or metal table which will help pull the heat out and cool the blades more quickly while you continue to clip with another blade set.

1. Wash blades in blade wash to remove dirt or debris. *NOTE: All new blades come with a sticky protective coating, which must be removed before use. Soak new blades in blade wash or similar solvent, then dry, and apply proper lubricant. Blades will get hot and must be rotated or cooled with coolant.

2. Use proper lubrication. Your blades are operating at higher speeds than other clippers and need a superior lubricant, such as “Tri-Flow™”. You may purchase lubricant from your hardware store or bicycle shop. Lubricant should be applied at the sides of the blades where the two blade rails rub together, not in the teeth which cause dirt and hair to clog the blade.

3. Check blade tension: The comb and cutter portions of the blade should slide back and forth across each other firmly but freely. If tension is too tight, blades will overheat rapidly. If tension is too loose, blades will quit clipping suddenly because hair and dirt will jam in between the comb and the cutter.

You may also use a spray blade coolant in addition to your normal lubricant to cool the blades and allow longer clipping times between blade rotations. Always lubricate blades before re-use and during operation. Please note that blades will not heat up as quickly on lower speeds. However, the clipper is most effective and gives the smoothest, fastest clip on the higher speeds using the blade rotation method outlined. (for blades that heat-up very quickly, see section on Blade Tension)
Please read the section on blades in the 40l Clipper Manual under maintenance before using clipper.

Visually inspect the blade latch with the blade removed. The latch is the small black metal component located beneath the hinge which is pushed up by the thumb when removing and installing blades. The upper end of the latch has a small hook. By turning the clipper to the side and examining the top of the latch, a small “c” shaped hook should be seen. If the hook is broken, the latch should be replaced. The spring in the hinge can also be fatigued. This can be tested by trying to pull the blades away without pressing up on the latch. If the blades are fairly easy to pull away a small amount, then the hinge should be replaced (*note this test works only if the latch is not broken.)

If the latch is visually fine, install a blade on the clipper. After installing the blade, try to remove the blade by simply pulling back on the top of the blade, with out using the latch. If the blade will not pull off, skip to question 2. If the blade pulls away, the blade is not latching on properly. Push up on the latch and see if there is “spring” in the latch. If so, then the blade may simply need to be pushed firmly against the housing until a faint snap is heard. If there is no spring in the latch, the latch may be installed on the hinge incorrectly or the springs that hold the latch in place may be damaged. (Skip to section A for checking the latch springs.)

Next, check the screws on the latch and hinge assembly. These should be tight. Check the screws on the blade. These should be tight.

Visually check the clearance between the sides of the blade spring clip and the clipper housing. If the clipper is pre-2007 and the blade is a newer style, the bottom clipper housing may need to be ground down slightly on the sides to accommodate some newer style blades. Double K can do this at no charge. (customer is responsible for transportation charges)

4. It is important to periodically clean the hair from between the clipper blade and the clipper handpiece housing during clipping sessions. The impacted hair can cause the blade to be pushed away from the clipper housing, reducing blade efficiency.

A. Remove the latch and hinge assembly by removing the two screws. The latch attaches to the underside of the hinge and is held in place by a small wire that comes out each side of the hinge and go into a small hole on each side of the latch. The wires point down and when properly inserted into the hole on each side of the latch allow the latch to be pushed up and seated on the back of the hinge. The small wires must be in the holes of the latch or the latch will not function properly. If the wires are broken off or bent down, the hinge must be replaced.